Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
